GE REFRIGERATOR CONTROL BOARD TEST HOW TO
GE REFRIGERATOR CONTROL BOARD TEST MANUAL
GE REFRIGERATOR CONTROL BOARD TEST CODE

The manual says that each of these has 2 decimal places (so the 1st one is 66.52 degrees, for example). I also did all of the thermistor tests here are the results:

GE REFRIGERATOR CONTROL BOARD TEST CODE

I especially wonder about code 105: does this mean that the condenser fan (or motor?) is bad? One thing that is strange is that the manual says that codes 2, 7, 11 and 12 are 'N/A' does this mean that we just ignore those? (Then why does it even report them?)Д¬ode 10 says 'FZ Icemaker Mold Body Thermistor (MB) Invalid'.Д¬ode 105 says 'Condenser Fan cannot reach target RPM.'Д¬ode 303 says 'FF Temp exceeded 75 degrees'.Д¬ode 304 says 'FZ Temp exceeded 72.5 degrees'. The 'Days Ago' for all of these is 0 which must mean today. It shows codes 2, 10, 7, 303, 304, 722 and 105 with counts of 1 and codes 11 with a count of 97 and code 12 with a count of 98. I was able to put it in service mode, and first I checked the error codes. No cooling at all in both refrigerator and freezer sections however, there is a humming sound when it's plugged in which seems somewhat quieter than the normal sound it used to make. Thanks to darren45Ed for your suggestions. Its money well spent and there's a treasure trove of information to help you out with a refrigerator situation such as this one. If you dont have a membership here on this site to be allowed to pull up downloads and the such. between 9 to 11 ohms With that said I would do the diagnostic testing first before changing the board and thoroughly check the components and any error codes that may have occured and start there first. the compressor windings should all be the same reading between any 2 of theВ 3 pins. If the compressor is supposed toВ be on at this point then the running dc voltage you should be getting from the main control board will be 4-6 volts DC with the wires connected and measuring at the inverter. The inverter gets 2-3 volts dc from the main boards J9 connector pins 7 and 8 as effective voltage, all wires must be connected ! That's when the inverter figures out the compressor running speed. The inverter gets 120 volts directly from the line voltage. If the fridge is dead in the water and compressor not running, the compressor will be cool to the touch. Along with the temperature of the condensor which should be around 100 degrees.

GE REFRIGERATOR CONTROL BOARD TEST HOW TO

there is a mini manual located underneath the door hinge cover that will show you how to put the fridge in diagnostics and check for any error codes and run certain procedures like checking the thermistors which is one of the first things you want to check. Are the temps in the fresh food section fluctuating up and down and the freezer is fine ? Have you lost cooling totally in both sections and the compressor is room temperature as if its not running ? The testing procedure you are performing is for a dead in the water, no compressor running and no cooling in both sections issue. There is not a lot of information to go by that you are giving as to what your exact cooling issue is. Mine is 3V does that mean the control board is bad? Or what is the next step to diagnose my problem? (In the video it was 5 so I can't tell from the video what I should do.) It says that the voltage from the control board to the inverter should be between 4 and 6 volts. I watched this video that explains how to diagnose it: Troubleshooting a Warm GE Refrigerator with an Inverter Compressor (GREAT video, by the way!). I have a GE Profile refrigerator with an inverter compressor that is not cooling.

Ge refrigerator control board test